BriteHand - Revision history

Vorpalwiki: /* Electronics */

2020-07-02T12:56:56Z

‎Electronics

Vorpalwiki: /* Adjusting the Servo Horn */

2020-06-09T18:21:25Z

‎Adjusting the Servo Horn

Vorpalwiki: /* Adjusting the Servo Horn */

2020-06-09T18:20:51Z

‎Adjusting the Servo Horn

Vorpalwiki: /* Adjusting the Servo Horn */

2020-06-09T18:19:57Z

‎Adjusting the Servo Horn

Vorpalwiki: /* DRAFT */

2020-06-09T18:17:33Z

‎DRAFT

Vorpalwiki: /* Tuning the IR Sensors */

2020-06-09T18:16:53Z

‎Tuning the IR Sensors

Vorpalwiki: /* Introduction */

2020-06-09T17:18:45Z

‎Introduction

Vorpalwiki: /* Miscellaneous */

2020-06-09T16:56:41Z

‎Miscellaneous

Vorpalwiki at 14:57, 9 June 2020

2020-06-09T14:57:17Z

Vorpalwiki: /* Tuning the IR Sensors */

2020-06-09T14:54:48Z

‎Tuning the IR Sensors

@@ Line 29: / Line 29: @@
 * 20cm F-F and M-F jumper wires as needed to form circuits
 * Shrink tube for insulating solder connections
-* 1 x wall power adapter with approximate output of 12 volts DC at 1 amp. You could use a wide range of "Wall Wort" adapters here, many adapters from old equipment would work here (I have a big box of old adapters from dead appliances in my basement for this kind of project). Don't go under 1 amp, and keep the voltage between 8 and 15, and make sure the output is DC. You can buy adapters from places like Jameco or Electronics Express or even Amazon for just a few dollars.
+* 1 x wall power adapter with approximate output of 12 volts DC at 1 amp. You could use a wide range of "Wall Wort" adapters. Many adapters from old equipment (routers, laptops, small appliances) would work here (I have a big box of old adapters from dead appliances in my basement for this kind of project). Don't go under 1 amp, and keep the voltage between 9 and 15, and make sure the output is DC. Cut off the plug and use a multimeter to identify the positive and negative wires. (Do not let the bare wires touch.) If you don't have anything lying around, you can buy adapters from places like Jameco or Electronics Express or even Amazon for just a few dollars.
 ===Fasteners===

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 To make this easier to figure out, pin D10 on the Nano will constantly output a 180 degree servo signal. Connect this to the servo signal (white) wire using a M-F jumper, then place the servo horn such that it points as shown in the picture.  After the horn is screwed in place in this position, switch the servo signal to pin D11 for actual use of the dispenser.
-Choose the single-arm horn, and also use clippers to trim the horn to just the shortest hole as shown in the picture.
+Choose the single-arm horn, and also use clippers to trim the horn to just the hole closest to the shaft, as shown:
 == Assembly ==

@@ Line 80: / Line 80: @@
 == Adjusting the Servo Horn ==
 The servo horn should be pointing straight out the top of the servo when the servo angle is 180 degrees, as shown here:
-Servo-Horn-Orientation.png
+[[File:Servo-Horn-Orientation.png|left|350px|Servo horn orientation at 180 degrees]]
 To make this easier to figure out, pin D10 on the Nano will constantly output a 180 degree servo signal. Connect this to the servo signal (white) wire using a M-F jumper, then place the servo horn such that it points as shown in the picture.  After the horn is screwed in place in this position, switch the servo signal to pin D11 for actual use of the dispenser.

@@ Line 79: / Line 79: @@
 == Adjusting the Servo Horn ==
-The servo horn should be pointing straight up when the servo angle is 180 degrees. To make this easier to figure out, pin D10 on the Nano will constantly output a 180 degree servo signal. Connect this to the servo signal (white) wire using a M-F jumper, then place the servo horn such that it points as shown in the picture.  After the horn is screwed in place in this position, switch the servo signal to pin D11 for actual use of the dispenser.
+The servo horn should be pointing straight out the top of the servo when the servo angle is 180 degrees, as shown here:
 Choose the single-arm horn, and also use clippers to trim the horn to just the shortest hole as shown in the picture.

@@ Line 1: / Line 1: @@
 =DRAFT=
-This page is a draft. As such, it is incomplete and not final. Don't use it yet. It should be complete by mid-June 2020.
+This page is a draft. As such, it is incomplete and not final. Some pictures are missing, wording incomplete, etc. Don't use it yet. It should be complete by mid-June 2020.
 ==Introduction==

← Older revision		Revision as of 18:16, 9 June 2020
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	Once both are tuned, insert them into the Base slots and make sure they still detect at a reasonable distance. Screw them in place using the access holes. Don't over-tighten the screws or you might crack the board or strip the plastic. As soon as the board is snug, stop turning the screw.		Once both are tuned, insert them into the Base slots and make sure they still detect at a reasonable distance. Screw them in place using the access holes. Don't over-tighten the screws or you might crack the board or strip the plastic. As soon as the board is snug, stop turning the screw.
		+
		+	== Adjusting the Servo Horn ==
		+	The servo horn should be pointing straight up when the servo angle is 180 degrees. To make this easier to figure out, pin D10 on the Nano will constantly output a 180 degree servo signal. Connect this to the servo signal (white) wire using a M-F jumper, then place the servo horn such that it points as shown in the picture. After the horn is screwed in place in this position, switch the servo signal to pin D11 for actual use of the dispenser.
		+
		+	Choose the single-arm horn, and also use clippers to trim the horn to just the shortest hole as shown in the picture.
		+
		+	== Assembly ==
		+	In order for this project to be high quality (capable of being used for long periods of time with no problems) we use metal screw thread inserts in several places. You could probably build the project without these inserts, but the threads might eventually come loose. To install the screw inserts, first thread a screw in the insert until it just comes through the other side. Hold the screw with pliers. Heat the insert with either a soldering iron, butane lighter, or butane torch for 5 to 10 seconds. Then plunge it into the hole just up to the point where the entire insert is in the hole (don't go too deep). It will melt its way into the plastic forming a strong bond. Don't let it sag--hold the screw steady and straight for 30 seconds to 1 minute, the point where the plastic cools and hardens. Then let it sit several more minutes so it reaches full strength before trying to remove the screw.
		+
		+	The places that need the inserts are all on the cap assembly, see the diagram.

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 Although there are many commercial no-touch dispensers available, because of the recent Covid pandemic they were literally all on back-order. My wife needed to open her dental office and ADA guidelines suggested no-touch sanitizer dispensers for patients to use. So, I developed this open source project.
-<youtube>kq7DRDUKuT0|Vorpal The Hexapod</youtube>
+<br clear=all>
 ==Bill of Materials (BOM)==

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 ===Miscellaneous===
 * About half a kilogram of 3d printer filament. PLA, ABS, and PETG would all be suitable.
-* 1 x soap dispenser pump style bottle, 16 ounces capacity, between 8.00 and 8.5 inches tall. Plastic is suggested (rather than glass) for safety.
+* 1 x soap dispenser pump style bottle, 16 ounces capacity, between 8.00 and 8.5 inches tall. The base should be circular, with diameter between 2.75 and 3.2 inches (between 70 and 80 mm). Plastic is suggested (rather than glass) for safety. There are numerous bottles on the market that will work.
 ==3D Printing the Parts==

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 ==Tuning the IR Sensors==
-These sensors are cheap and reliable, but a bit finicky to get tuned at the beginning. You will need to put some shrink tube over the big clear LED to avoid IR coming out the sides and false-triggering the IR detector. Holding the sensor as shown here:
+The KY-032 infrared proximity sensors used in this project are cheap and reliable, but a bit finicky to get tuned at the beginning. You will need to put some shrink tube over the big clear LED to avoid IR coming out the sides and false-triggering the IR detector. Holding the sensor as shown here:
-Turn the right pot wheel so the slot in it is horizontal as shown, and the left wheel so the slot is almost fully clockwise and vertical. Power the sensor off the BEC output and now carefully move your hand toward it until the red light glows, showing that it is detecting your hand. You want the light to trigger at about 4 inches (100mm) plus or minus an inch or so (25mm or so). You may need to slightly adjust the left wheel, or adjust how much shrink tube you put over the IR transmitter LED, to get it tuned correctly.
+[[File:KY-032-Sensor-Adjustment.png|left|750px|Note the potentiometer positions]]
 Once both are tuned, insert them into the Base slots and make sure they still detect at a reasonable distance. Screw them in place using the access holes. Don't over-tighten the screws or you might crack the board or strip the plastic. As soon as the board is snug, stop turning the screw.